It's Onam Time!

Onam is harvest festival celebrated in Kerala, a state in southern India. The specific dates vary from year to year, but usually takes place in late August or early September. Onam 2008 began on September 12. While there are many festivities that celebrate Onam, the best tradition by far is the Onam Sadya (or Onasadya). While meat and fish are commonly used in Kerala cuisine, Onam is one time where a sadya is exclusively vegetarian. Growing up in my family, we always celebrated Onam and often celebrated the occasion with friends. Most of our Onasadyas were at the home of one other family who were strict vegetarians year-round. It was an annual tradition; they would always invite us and 2 other families over. As one would expect, that auntie certainly had the market cornered when it came to cooking veggies. Since I was otherwise occupied last weekend, yesterday was the evening designated for our Onasadya.

Last year was the first year I tried to cook an Onasadya on my own. I had pulled a few recipes off the internet and then tried to adapt them based on what I could recall of how my mom cooks particular dishes. Asking my mom wasn't particularly successful, as most Indian moms describe recipes with "a pinch of that, some this, a little bit of that, cook it for a while", etc. The results were mixed. :-/

This year I tried the same approach, but with a bit more research on the recipes. And I've been paying even closer attention to how my mom cooks things when I visit SF. An uber-traditional Onasadya has nine-courses served in a precise order, but that would be overkill for just the two of us. Read: I did not want to spend literally the entire day cooking. Instead I picked just a few of the traditional items. My primary recipe source was Kerala Recipes. I chose this site after reading through its recipes and comparing them against (a) other websites and (b) my limited knowledge of Indian vegetarian cooking. Plus most of the recipes were attributed to a Mrs. Annamma Philippose --- and that's a straight-up Malayalee name if I've ever heard one!



A note before moving on to the recipes: Indian cooking lends itself easily to adaptation. In fact, there were several recipes I encountered online that made the same dish, but never in the exact same manner. When I cook Indian food, there are a few big changes I make to every recipe.

1. I don't use coconut oil to cook for the simple reason that my mom never does and she's an outstanding cook. I used a canola oil blend instead.


2. I also don't use as much grated coconut that is called for.


3. I make a much smaller quantity than recipes call for. Most recipes are designed with family-style dining in mind.

The first dish I cooked was avial. This is one of my favorite dishes and the one I was most nervous about cooking. It always seems so complicated when my mom makes it. It was the most time consuming, as there is a lot of chopping required. Also, it must be cooked over low to medium low heat. I didn't use the exact vegetables that the recipe called for. Instead I used yam, taro root, string beans, plantain, 2 types of snake gourd and drumsticks. It turned out suprisingly well. The yogurt is really what gives this dish its unique taste.

Next up were two vegetables cooked separately, but using a similar technique: cabbage thoran and okra thoran. I didn't change too much in either of these recipes. The okra however, was undersalted while the cabbage was too salty.

Since I had leftover yogurt from the avial, I decided to make moru curry. This was a staple in our household as I was growing up. I could live on a good moru, hot rice and a bit of mango pickle. I think I did exactly that for a phase back in 5th grade!

My composed plate with mango pickle and fried bitter melon as accompaniments:

You'll notice that there isn't any cabbage on my plate. I hate cabbage thoran. But it is one of Eddie's favorite Indian dishes, so I cook it anyways just for him. That's love.

One thing became clear as I made this meal. Indian cookery is a skill that requires patience, practice and lots of trial-and-error. In other words I need to cook Indian food on a somewhat regular basis so that I can truly gain sort of mastery over these dishes and others. Don't be surprised if more Indian recipes start making their way onto this blog! ;-)

New Recipe Sunday #8

Macaroni with Gruyere Cheese, Serrano Ham and Leeks
Source: Chef Jared Simon, Violet



Is it any wonder that I felt drawn to cooking a comfort food dish this weekend? I had been itching to try this recipe for a while, but the combination of a gloomy week and the knowledge that fall is just around the corner made today the perfect day to finally cook this.

You will need:

1-1/2 cups elbow macaroni

1/2 cup Serrano ham, diced in 1/8 inch cubes

1 cup gruyere cheese, grated

1/2 cup parmesan cheese, grated

2 cups cream

1 large leek, julienned

1/3 cup bread crumbs

2 tsp. olive oil

2 tsp. vegetable oil

chives (optional)

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add the 2 teaspoons of olive oil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente. Drain and set aside.
2. Heat a medium sized saute pan. Add the 3 teaspoons of vegetable oil. When the oil is hot, add the ham and saute over medium heat until the cubes begin to brown. Add the leeks and toss with the ham. Add cream. When the cream begins to simmer, add the parmesan cheese. Add macaroni. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
3. Divide the macaroni mixture into four ovenproof dishes. Top each dish with gruyere cheese and bread crumbs.
4. Bake the macaroni in a pre-heated 450 degree oven for approximately 8-10 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from oven and garnish with chopped chives (optional).

Cooking Notes: (a) I couldn't find Serrano ham in BFE, so I just subbed in some Niman Ranch ham that I already had on hand. Prosciutto would be a closer substitute for the original however. (b) As you can tell, I baked it in one larger dish rather than individual serving pieces. (c) In order to brown the topping, I put the dish under the broiler for 2-3 minutes after baking. Just keep a close eye on it to make sure it doesn't start to burn.

The Verdict: "Make it again." I really enjoyed this. It didn't taste as heavy as a more traditional mac n' cheese, perhaps due to the delicate flavor of the leeks or because it didn't involve as much cheese. The one disadvantage I had in making this recipe is that I've never dined at Violet and therefore have not tasted it in its original form. Undoubtedly it would blow mine out of the water, but since I'm so pleased with how mine turned out I'm looking forward to whenever I do get a chance to try it at the restaurant.

New Recipe Sunday #7

Pasta with Sausage, Basil and Mustard
Source: Food & Wine magazine

You will need:

• 1 pound penne or medium shells
• 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 pound hot Italian sausage -- casings removed and meat crumbled
• 3/4 cup dry white wine
• 3/4 cup heavy cream
• 3 Tbsp. whole grain mustard
• pinch of crushed red pepper
• 1 cup thinly sliced basil

1. Cook the pasta until al dente in a large pot of boiling, salted water; drain.
2. Heat the oil in a large, deep skillet. Add the crumbled sausage and brown over moderately high heat. Add the wine and simmer until reduced by half. Add the cream, mustard, crushed red pepper and simmer for 2-3 minutes. Stir in the pasta and basil and serve.

Cooking Notes: (a) As usual I halved the amount of pasta. (b) I also halved the amount of mustard after seeing the face Eddie made when he saw it on the counter with the rest of the ingredients.

Eddie's Rating: "I don't know about this hon." I sort of agreed with him. The dish wasn't a disaster, but there was something off about it. I do plan on making this again, but with the following modifications:

• Using even less of the mustard -- maybe a single tablespoon at the most. Even with the reduced amount I used, the mustard flavor was clear and present. Not in a good way.
• Using a higher quality pork suasage or a poultry-based sausage instead. The brand I had used (Johnsonville?) was too greasy, which affected the sauce.
• Paying closer attention to the wine as it reduced. I'm not entirely sure that I cooked it down long enough.

I'll post an updated review when I make it again.

New Recipe Sunday #6

Spaghetti with Fresh Spinach and Gorgonzola
source: Food & Wine Magazine, Best of the Best Cookbook

You will need:

• 4 oz. gorgonzola cheese (at room temp.)
• 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter (at room temp.)
• 8 cups young, fresh spinach
• 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tsp. sea salt
• 1 lb. spaghetti
• 10-12 large fresh basil leaves (optional)

1. Bring a large pot of water to boil for the pasta.


2. In a small bowl, mash together the gorgonzola and butter until it forms a smooth paste. Set aside, but do not refrigerate.


3. Wash & drain the spinach.


4. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over moderately high heat. Add the spinach and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Toss the spinach until it is wilted. Taste for seasoning and add more salt if needed. Turn off the heat, but keep the spinach warm on the side of the stove.


5. Salt the pasta water and add the spaghetti. Cook the pasta until al dente. Drain the pasta, but reserve 1 cup of the cooking water. Transfer the spaghetti to the skillet and toss with the spinach. Add the gorgonzola-butter mixture and toss to coat the spaghetti. If the pasta seems dry, add a bit of the cooking water and toss again. Add cooking water as necessary to make a creamy consistency. If you use the basil, tear the leaves and toss into the spaghetti. Serve immediately.

Cooking Notes: (a) I reduced the amount of pasta by half to serve the both of us [with a little bit left over]. (b) Accordingly, I reduced the amount of sea salt to 1/2 teaspoon instead of the recommended amount. I left all other measurements the same. (c) Some freshly ground pepper added some needed balance to the bite of the gorgonzola. (d) I ended up using just a splash of the reserved cooking water in order to get the right consistency.

Eddie's Rating: "It's not bad." Then he went and got seconds. When I asked him what he thought could be changed, the response was, "There could be less of the greens." Figures. I think it tasted fine as is and that the dish was not overwhelmed by the spinach at all. Eight cups sounds like a lot, but spinach wilts down into a much smaller quantity when it is cooked. Besides, dark leafy greens are good for you!

The picture isn't a great one, but it was the best I could do. I was already partially through before I realized I had forgotten to take a picture. Bad blogger!

New Recipe Sunday (er, Monday) #5

Caramelized Black Pepper Chicken
Source: Food & Wine Magazine

You will need:

• 1/2 cup dark brown sugar
• 3 Tbsp. fish sauce
• 1/4 cup water
• 3 Tbsp. rice vinegar
• 1 tsp. minced garlic
• 1 tsp. freshly grated ginger
• 1 tsp. coarsely ground pepper
• 2 fresh Thai chilies, halved
• 1 Tbsp. canola oil
• 1 shallot, thinly sliced
• 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-inch pieces
• cilantro sprigs (for garnish)

1. Combine the brown sugar, fish sauce, water, rice vinegar, garlic, ginger, pepper and chilies in a small bowl.
2. Heat the canola oil in a large deep skillet over moderate heat. Once heated, add the sliced shallot and cook until softened, approx. 4 minutes. Turn the heat to high, add the chicken and the fish sauce mixture. Bring to a simmer. Simmer over high heat until the chicken is cooked, approx. 10 minutes.
3. Garnish with cilantro and serve over rice.

Cooking Notes: (a) Fish sauce is available in most Asian markets. 'Squid' brand is preferred in our household. The smell is quite pungent, so you may want to open the windows while simmering the sauce. (b) You can adjust the amount of sweetness and heat to your liking. For example, next time I'll use a bit less sugar (maybe 1/3 cup) and add in another chili pepper. (c) This is a quick, easy, under 30-minute recipe. But Charles Phan kicks Rachel Ray's butt!

Eddie's Rating: This one garnered a "Very good. Make it again." with a simultaneous thumbs-up. I think he really digs this one.

On a related cooking note, downsizing is definitely in effect at supermarkets at least with regard to product sizes and not prices. On the right is an empty box of penne rigate I purchased several months ago. On the left is the replacement box I purchased last week.

Old box = 1 pound (the heretofore standard pasta box amount)

New box = slightly less

The price? Was not respectively lower. Argh.

New Recipe Sunday #4

Broken Pappardelle with Shrimp and Zucchini
Source: Food and Wine Magazine

You will need:

• 1/2 pound pappardelle, broken into 2-inch lengths
• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 pound small zucchini, thinly sliced (3 1/2 cups)
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
• 1 large jalapeño, seeded (optional) and thinly sliced
• 1 pound shelled and deveined medium shrimp, halved lengthwise
• 1/2 pound thin asparagus, cut into 1/2-inch lengths
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 3 tablespoons snipped chives

1. Cook the broken pappardelle in a large pot of boiling, salted water until just al dente. Drain the pappardelle, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water.
2. While the pasta is cooking, heat the olive oil over high heat in a very large skillet. Add the sliced zucchini and season with salt and pepper. Cook the zucchini over high heat, stirring occasionally, until it is browned in spots, approx. 3-4 minutes. Add the garlic and jalapeno and cook for 1 minute. Season the shrimp with salt and pepper and add to the skillet. Add the asparagus. Cook, stirring occasionally for 3 minutes, until the shrimp is pink and starting to curl but not cooked through entirely.
3. Add the cooked pappardelle and heavy cream to the skillet. Simmer over moderately low heat, tossing until the shrimp are cooked through and the sauce is thickened slightly. This will take approx. 2-3 minutes. Add the pasta cooking water a little bit at a time if the sauce seems dry. Stir in the chives and serve immedaitely.

Cooking Notes: (a) 1 pound zucchini = 3-4 average size squashes. (b) The fastest way to break up the pappardelle is with a mallet and a light hand. (c) You can either omit the jalapeno entirely or remove the seeds if you have an aversion to spicy foods. (d) Halving the shrimp lengthwise is a pain, but necessary. (e) This recipe is an exercise in timing. Don't start cooking the shrimp & vegetable mixture until the pasta is already added to the boiling water.

Eddie's Rating: "Make it again!" This reaction was in large part due to the fact that I had left in all the seeds of the jalapeno, which added a definite kick to this pasta dish.

I apologize for the lack of a photo. I was distracted with other thoughts most of this weekend. I tried to find one on Food & Wine's website, but they were no help. :( Just take my word that it is a very pretty looking dish between the creamy color of the pasta, the pale pink pieces of shrimp and the bright green of the veggies. It's a great summertime pasta dish.

New Recipe Sunday #3

Scallops Provencal

I found this recipe via Sing for your Supper blog, but the original source is Ina Garten's Barefoot in Paris cookbook.

You will need:

• 1 pound bay or sea scallops
  
• kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
  
• flour, for dredging
  
• 1/2 stick (4 Tbsp.) unsalted butter, divided
  
• 2 large shallots, chopped
  
• 1 garlic clove, minced
  
• 1/4 cup fresh parsley, chopped
  
• 1/3 cup dry white wine
  
• 1 lemon, cut in half




1. If you are using bay scallops, keep them whole. If you are using sea scallops, cut them in half horizontally. Sprinkle the scallops with salt and pepper and toss with flour. Shake of the excess flour.


2. In a large saute pan, heat 2 Tbsp. of the butter over high heat until sizzling. Add the scallops to the pan in a single layer. Lower the heat to medium and allow the scallops to brown lightly on one side without moving them (a light sear). This usually takes approximately 2 minutes. Then turn the scallops and brown lightly on the other side, another 1-2 minutes.


3. Melt the remaining butter in the pan with the scallops. Add the parsley, garlic and shallots. Saute for 2 more minutes, gently tossing the seasonings with the scallops. Add the wine and cook for 1-2 minutes.


4. Serve hot with a squeeze of lemon.

Cooking Notes: (a) If you have access to fresh scallops, use them. I didn't, so I used frozen wild Japanese scallops from Trader Joe's. Despite ScallopGate on this past season of Top Chef, frozen scallops won't destroy a meal as long as they are completely thawed, drained and patted dry. Even if you use fresh scallops, pat them dry before tossing with the flour. (b) I used about 1/4 cup flour to adequately cover 1 pound of scallops. (c) When it comes to using wine in cooking, I use whatever I would drink myself. If it's not good in a glass, it's not good in a pan. Tonight I happened to have an already-opened bottle of Kono Sauvignon Blanc in the refrigerator and used that for both the dish and my beverage.

I served this with a Demi Pain Rustique from Trader Joe's. It's a warm, crusty bread that is great to sop up all the tasty, buttery sauce.

Eddie's Rating: "It was alright."

hmpf.

New Recipe Sunday #2

This is nothing new. Nor is this a recipe. This is, however, the answer to "what's for dinner?" after a long day of housecleaning. Cleaning makes me cranky. Very cranky. So cranky that the second I was done with it I poured myself a (very)generous glass of wine while I put my feet up for a bit. The wine went to my head rather quickly; chopping anything would have been a dangerous endeavor. Everyone needs a quick, go-to meal in situations like these. Chicken soft tacos were the answer on Sunday night.

The best thing about making tacos is that there is so much room for personal expression. Maybe that's overstating it. But as long as it tastes good, you can pretty much do whatever you want in terms of fillings and condiments. Eddie and I are pretty basic. We just need some meat, cheese, guacamole and a good sauce or salsa. Of course using freshly made items would be preferable, but since we had so many taco-worthy items on hand in our cabinets I totally went the lazy route. I'm blaming the wine.

You will need:

• 1 lb. ground chicken
• 1 packet Lawry's hot taco seasoning
• shredded cheese
• guacamole
• jalapeno hot sauce
• tomatillo salsa
• sliced jalapenos
• tortillas

1. Prepare the chicken according to the directions on the seasoning packet. Set aside.
2. Warm tortillas.
3. Spoon chicken into the tortillas. Add toppings and condiments to your liking.

These tacos paired well with Novella's Synergy Blanc wine. It's a blend of chardonnay, pinot gris, sauvignon blanc and a bit of muscat canelli. It's available at Trader Joe's for about $5. It was also quite nice to drink on its own.

Cooking Notes: (a) I tried to make things a little healthier by using ground chicken instead of beef, low carb tortillas and light cheese. In the future I'd opt for regular cheese instead. (b) Eddie and I like spicy foods, hence the hot seasoning, sliced jalapenos and two spicy salsas. You can always adjust the heat level to your liking. (c) Trader Joe's makes a pretty decent pre-made guacamole. (d) Have napkins on hand (or a dog underfoot) for the inevitable spillage while eating.

New Recipe Sunday #1

Back when we were dating, Eddie made one somewhat odd request of me: to make a home-cooked meal on Sunday evenings. Since I already had an interest in learning how to cook and I knew how often he relied on Carl's Jr. for dinner most weeknights, I acquiesced. Now that we've been married for more than a year, I definitely cook more frequently, but it's hard to try out new recipes during the week. Trying out a recipe for the first time requires a certain level of time and attention that I simply don't have at the end of a workday. So inspired by our former Sunday night dinners, I have pledged to cook a new dish each Sunday.

So without further ado I present: Bucatini with Sausage and Peas (source: Food and Wine magazine)

You will need:

• 2 Tbsp. olive oil


• 1/2 lb. hot Italian sausage, casings removed


• 2 garlic cloves, minced


• 1 shallot, minced


• 2-1/2 cups prepared tomato sauce


• 1/4 cup heavy cream


• 1/2 cup frozen baby peas


• salt


• 1 lb. bucatini


• 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
  
• 2 Tbsp. shredded basil
  
  

1. In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil over moderately high heat. Add the sausage and cook 6-8 minutes, until lightly browned, breaking up the sausage into small pieces. Add the minced garlic and shallot and cook for about 2 more minutes, until softened. Add the tomato sauce and bring to a simmer.


2. Turn the heat down to low and partially cover the the sauce. Cook for 30 minutes. Stir in the cream and frozen peas and continue to simmer over low heat for an additional 10 minutes. Season with salt to taste.


3. While the sauce is simmering, cook the pasta in salted water until it is al dente. Drain the pasta and return it to its pot. Add the sauce and the grated cheese. Stir over low heat until the pasta absorbs some of the sauce, approximately 2-3 minutes.


4. Top with additional grated cheese and the shredded basil and serve.

Cooking notes: a. If you can't find bucatini, spaghetti is an adeqaute substitute; b. If you can find ground Italian sausage, it will make things a little easier; c. For the tomato sauce, I used a very plain organic marinara from Trader Joe's.

Eddie's Rating: "Make it again!"

Right here would be a great location for a picture of the finished dish. But you'll have to use your imagination this time. Quite frankly, I was too lazy to clean off the tabletop to take a nice picture. Oops, my bad!